Directissima

It was another Saturday and I was again partner-less. I called up Scott Matz, a friend I had met while working in the climbing department at JAX. We set our sights on Directissima (5.10b) on the Chasm View Wall. We were confident that it would be a cruiser day. As usual, I was on around two hours of sleep having got off work in a different city, cooked a meal, and racked. Without rush we spent an hour and twenty minutes to reach the start of our 4^th class scramble to the first belay anchors. While following the 3^rd pitch, I watched as Josh Wharton made history, making the first free ascent of the Dunn-Westbay Route (5.13b). Having only four alpine routes under my belt, I spent most of my day searching for confidence. I thrutched my way to the crux pitch, where I finally managed to find it lingering deep inside me. I coasted through the crux where I got pumped and decided to down climb a few moves and shake out. The next thing I knew I was looking up at my last piece and dangling on the sheer face. It was my first alpine lead fall and to my surprise, I actually gained confidence from it. After all, it was on a bomber, #3 C4. I ran out of quickdraws shortly after that due to poor communication between first time partners, and had to build a hanging belay. For efficiency, I gave my partner the last third of the pitch. At the top out, we both took our last sip of water and descended with dry camelbaks. Again, the day ended much longer than anticipated, but it was clear that he was in no hurry to get up or down; an area where I am known for finding redemption if slow climbing takes place. We ended the day with margaritas and beer at Ed’s Cantina where I bought Scott a beer for leading the heinous 5.9 squeeze pitch. The route presented difficulty for sure and was my hardest alpine route to date, but I am left with the feeling that I have yet to be tested.